Small bust adjustments (SBA) in sewing seems to be not as used as full bust adjustments (judging by the amount of tutorials out there), but I found a few links that I would share! I very rarely do more than grade between a smaller and larger size for the major pattern companies, but when I decided to sew up Collete's Sorbetto top, drafted for a C cup, I thought it would be a good time to look into it. I didn't end up using any of the tutorials because I just decided to leave out the dart and wanted a flowy, unfitted shirt, but these would be useful for other patterns! Ideally, figured out on a muslin of your bodice.....if I ever did a muslin. Which I don't. I just can't bring myself to 1)use that much fabric, and 2) sew something twice. My loss, no doubt!
Moonbeam has a great tutorial for the slash and pivot method for patterns with waist and bust darts --->here
And she also has a great tutorial on slash and pivot for a pattern that doesn't have any darts --->here
Hungry Zombie Couture has a nice tutorial on the same method, if you like to look at various ones -->here
Here is another slash and pivot method over at Paunnet for a deer and doe pattern. This one has a slash going up to the shoulder seam and one to the front. I don't know what the difference is though? Maybe because it is a split front? Also good to note that the deer and doe pattern is also drafted for C cup --->here
Over at the Slapdash Sewist, she had an old post on various methods of SBA on just about every pattern bodice type! Especially useful for wrap dresses, which aren't really covered on other pages. Tutorial isn't as comprehensive, but it gives you a basic idea for the different bodice types, very useful! --->here
Hope these are useful to someone! The shirt I made today is super cute, went together really quickly, and was just the easy project I wanted :) I'll take pictures of it (and all my other projects) this week! I have another away job in upstate New York starting next week!
Well, hello there everyone! Long time! I've been busy sewing since I've been back, hit with an inspiration bug during some down time in work, which is nice. I don't want to go back to work now! Anyway, I'll get around to posting some things eventually. I just want to sew sew SEW!
The other 'hello there' is to this dress! Which was finished over a year ago and never made it to the picture taking stage. Never even made it to the wearing stage. I don't entirely know why. The waist stay was in wrong, could that have been the entire reason? I vaguely remember it being too tight, maybe? There really is no rhyme or reason to it, it happens to a lot of my creations. It never even made it out of the sewing room and into my closet. But I went to a jazz concert last night and thought, hey, I remember this dress, let's wear that!
So, it made it out of the sewing room! I love 50's styles, why did I wait so long? Even snapped a few pictures while I was waiting for the concert hall to open. Hard to see the details in the lighting, I might take a few more inside... And I decided to shorten my crinoline, it is always just an inch too long for my dresses and I love the look of the full skirt, I so rarely buy enough fabric to make vintage skirts, I need to take advantage of it!
Unfortunately, I made this dress so long ago that I don't remember any construction notes. The fabric is a light-weight cotton from Joann's. Frayed like the devil. I do remember the welted buttonholes being particularly fun.
If I ever made it again I would pinch the neckline a bit so that the shoulders didn't have the tendency to slip down so much. I was wearing a strapless underneath, but it was still a little annoying. I might put a small piece of elastic on the underside of the shoulder/neck and see if that helps.
The skirt is way fuller than it looks in the pictures, the fabric just hangs really well. And if you are thinking about making this pattern and wanted to not be worried about bra straps showing, I would 1) make strap holders on the shoulders, and 2) raise the back up an inch or so.
Posting over at my travel blog about Croatia still, but I've been so swamped with work the past few weeks! And now I'm leaving for a family trip to Yellowstone tomorrow! So excited! Even my sister and BiL are coming; they never go anywhere!! It's going to be great! I'll post all about it when I get back :) Hopefully get around to taking some pictures of the projects I finished before and after my last vacation. So behind in things!
Been back in the states for a little less than a week. I had an amazing time in Paris, as usual! I was ready to head back to Europe after 2 days! Well, gotta go back to work sometime. My restlessness after vacations has made me pretty productive the past few days. I've found that right after a trip is the perfect time to clean out your closets (and attic) and get rid of clothes and whatnot! Not only am I depressed and detached from everything (ha, whatever works!), but I've also been living in the same 5 shirts for the past month and my overflowing closet just seems outrageous! Silver linings, people.
I'm finishing up my 40's replica dress that I started before my trip, working in the yard (Spring! Finally!), editing and posting pictures from my trip, and getting some cooking done before I start work and my free time completely vanishes.
Check out the post I just made about Plitvice National Park in Croatia. Seriously gorgeous place filled with amazing waterfalls like you wouldn't believe!
Croatia guys!! Words can't describe how beautiful it is here. Even more beautiful on this one day it hasn't rained :) I did my best to soak up the sun! In the town of Makarska, just south of Split. Having an awesome time, I'm afraid I've created a solo-traveling monster! The world is mine! Starting to (slowly, i.e. I've put up one) put up some posts over at my travel blog --> Here but haven't had much time. So busy!
Check it out!
Hey! Can you believe it? I actually managed to fit everything in my new Osprey backpack! It is stuffed to the MAX though. I left the detachable day-pack empty for any souvenirs I pick up along the way and I’m using a larger backpack that I already owned as a carry-on, mostly empty as well. Man, traveling must have been so much….lighter without technology. My cameras, computers, chargers, and cords take up so much space!
I don’t have a list of what I packed, because I didn’t know exactly what I would bring until I was able to fit everything in. I even went shopping two days before I left, bought a new black dress, and then decided to take my old one anyway. Oh, and I managed to finish my Bombshell bathing suit bottom! I didn’t think that would happen! It’ll probably be too cold to be in a bathing suit on the beach, but I’m prepared for anything. I am super in love with it. I'll have to search out an indoor swimming pool or something!
There were some things I wish I had made though. I want to get them down so I can remember to start making them or looking for them in stores when I get back. Never too early to start planning for my next trip!
A black dress : Fit and flare, preferably jersey and doesn’t take up a lot of packing space. I have a body-con style dress, but I’d definitely be more comfortable in a fit and flare style.
A button-up dress : I don't know why, but I really wanted to have one of these. I have a couple with sleeves, but I really wanted one without. Out of something that doesn't wrinkle, maybe some sort of chiffon...I could use the same slip with it and my black dress above! I don't think I would have had space in my luggage though....Still. I love them. I'll make some anyway!
A blazer : Coco stripe ponte knit blazer is my dream. Or just even just a black ponte knit. My actual blazer is getting a lot of use and looking a little worn. And I think a knit or jersey type would travel well and be more comfortable than my blazer.
A jacket : I bought a olive utility jacket for this trip which I think will get a lot of use. It isn’t lined though, so during a different time of year, something similar but maybe lined? I have the pattern I want to use already. Bonus: the pattern has a hood. I decided completely last minute to take out my black blazer and bring my black anorak that has a hood. Not very fashion-forward, but I’m expecting it to rain quite a bit and it will be infinitely more useful than a blazer. I can layer it pretty easily too. And anything I would have worn my blazer with I can wear with my sweater instead. Travel location decision. If I was going to be in Paris for more than 2 weeks, I would bring my blazer. My friends will have to accept me looking rather vagabondish ;) And suffer through my withdrawals, I practically live in that blazer.
A sweater: I had to decide between a black blazer, a black sweater, and a black anorak (one of the reasons I want a different blazer). Not because I love black, but because that is all I have! If I make a black ponte knit blazer though, maybe getting a brown, tan, or grey sweater would be useful.
Skirt : You can never have too many options. A mid-length circle skirt, either in black or a colour (curry yellow, maybe?) out of a soft jersey. I have a shorter black one that gets a lot of use, but if I travel to more conservative areas or just want the look of a midi-length (so classic!), it would be nice to have the option! I’m leaving my black one at home and bringing my linen one instead on this trip. The outfits that can be made with both are about the same. Plus, I brought the black one last year ;)
Anyway, since I don’t have a list of my little ‘capsule’ wardrobe, I’ll try and take pictures of the outfits as I go! I have my tripod and it is always nice to have pictures of YOU actually ON vacation, instead of just the pretty scenery, you know? Catch you guys on the flip side! Croatia, here I come!
Any clothing items you guys find you can't travel without?
Oh, and welcome back typepad. Hope you don't get hacked again!
Wow! I made so many plans and had so many things to do before I left for Croatia. Not too long ago it seemed like I had all the time in the world! But the minimum 16 hour days of the film industry killed those dreams, lol. I was going to learn to drive standard (I upgraded my car rental in Croatia once I realised that wasn't happening!), I wanted to make a jacket, a swimsuit, and a 40's dress, plan out my wardrobe, work a bit in the garden before I left....so many things, so little time
To be fair, I did finish that skirt, refilled my prescriptions, got new contacts and lenses for my glasses (it's been at least 5 years...possibly a lot longer....and for some reason I've had to go back twice and again next week...scratched corneas?? Yikes. It is more of a process than I anticipated. Glad I thought ahead!), I'm getting my car fixed (again), and sort of packing. I'm much more productive when I'm under pressure, apparently. Things actually get done in those few days off between jobs. I'm going to be SO glad when this vacation comes. I may just sleep the first few days away! My mind is already on mental vacation.
Anyway, lots of this obnoxious stuff called 'work' getting in the way of fun things, like sewing. I really shouldn't complain though! But probably nothing new (unless I magically get a bathing suit sewn up!) for a while, except travel pictures!
Enjoy the rest of your weekend everyone! We are shooting Play-doh on Monday. Joy.
My parents have both been sick, so it was only a matter of time before I caught the illness in this house turned petri dish. Luckily it hit the day after I finished working (I'm sure my stress and lack of sleep didn't help my immune system much), because that would have made the past week just 20 times more exhausting than it already was.
So, since I'm not really wanting to move much, I thought I would POST about sewing instead of actually doing it. And I spent the entire first half of the day looking for swimwear fabrics to buy online (I'm going to try and make the bottoms of the hugely popular Bombshell pattern for a start, to bring to Croatia, obviously!). Even when I'm not sewing, my day is filled with sewing.
But what perfect timing for this sew-along, I was just thinking that a 40's style dress would be perfect for some fabric I just bought! So I'm going to try and get this dress finished in between my illness, working, and packing. Shouldn't take me too long, I've already started!
I'm going to use the reissued Simplicity 40's pattern 1587
I'm going to be making it out of a chiffon fabric that I just got at Joann's (with a slip underneath, of course!). I don't know why, but I saw the fabric and instantly wanted to make a 40's dress out of it. It only took me a few minutes to remember why I hate working with chiffon so much. What a pain! And with a pattern on the fabric and keeping it straight while cutting? Took me ages to just cut the blasted thing out! Fraying edges, hand basting, stretching, fabric eating sewing machines, french seams. Ugh. Save me.
Remember that vintage pattern that I posted? I finished the skirt! I started playing with some different outfits. The pictures turned out kind of crappy, but I don't even care!
It doesn't look at all like Audrey's skirt in Roman holiday that I had in my mind's eye when brainstorming the skirt, but it turned out exactly how I had planned it! It's got the same feeling ;) I'm hoping to bring this to Croatia with me, but I guess we will see how packing goes! I'm going to look ridiculous with this outfit and a giant backpack on, but whatever.
I used the vintage pattern as a base, but ended up changing it quite a bit. I borrowed the pleat layout, but had to make the size smaller, chopped off quite a bit of length, added giant pockets in the side seams, put elastic in the back of the waistband (for wearing comfort!), added belt loops, hem tape on the inside belt seam, a hook and eye on the front to keep the button from pulling, and made the front button placket (and button holes, etc).
Oh, and hey! You get a double! I put on a top with it that I made way back last summer and never posted! I changed up a Vogue pattern (looks like it is out of print now-2958) to make it into a crop top instead of a dress. And added a full separating zipper in the back. I made it to go with a black jersey circle skirt that I practically lived in last summer, but I haven't gotten around to wearing this shirt yet!
Made it out of an amazing woven that I found ages ago at Joann's. Probably meant to be a South American pattern, but it reminded me of some minority's fabric designs in China, which is why I bought a bunch of it. Love it. Always thought I'd make a bag out of it or something... I'm still in love with the fabric!
I'm really having the worst time editing pictures! They look find on my computer, then I upload them and the quality is total rubbish and they come out darker and with less contrast. It is driving me MAD. Blah.
Not end of the wintery mix weather wise(still snowing!), but sewing wise! That's it, from here on out I'm only making sundresses! This is the last winter/long-sleeve dress you'll see from me this year! I'm so tired of winter and the cold, I don't think it is going to ever end! So...sundresses. I shall bring Spring about by the sheer force of my will. Vive le Printemps!
Tl;wr (like 'didn't read', but 'won't', so I can put it before everything. Grammar is important, people.)
Success! Made out of a medium-weight, soft, not too stretchy green jersey. Bodice is slightly too short, which I noted for next time I make the pattern. But, with some other modifications, a very comfortable dress! Main change is that I didn't line the top, which I thought was a weird way to construct the dress. Am I getting to the point of sewing when I become annoying about using patterns? I could do it so much better ;) But not too tight, not too loose, not too much gaping. Goldilocks of dresses. And in a cute 40's style with the side drape. Not a bad dress to END THE WINTER ON *hinthint, Weather, I'm talking to you!*
Except for a few problems, I like this dress! It is comfortable and I'm always obsessed with 40's style anything. I made view A with view B sleeves. Or view B with view A skirt ;) Whichever. I feel like the construction and possible modifications on this dress are very much dependent on the weight of the fabric you choose. But even with that, I think it would be a good pattern for beginners looking for something a bit more difficult. Gotta take the leap sometime!
....My only qualm is that the waist is too high! My mother said it wasn't noticable, and I'd probably wear a belt, but I can FEEL it. The bodice is too short! I've never had that problem with a pattern before. There is a tube for the elastic in the seam allowance at the waist, so I might end up taking it out to give a teeny bit of extra length to the bodice and sewing the elastic just directly onto the seam. Might help? I thought about doing that anyway while I was making it, it seemed strange that they used the enclosed elastic method. It isn't a major problem, but enough to bug me!
My only real alteration was that I didn't line the bodice. I felt like they should have made this an option dependent on the weight of your fabric. Anything other than super-thin jerseys really have no need for this extra layer. The jersey that I used it quite thick and having a double layer wrap-bodice with double layer pleated drape at the skirt would have ended up with nearly 10 layers of thick fabric at the waist seam. Crazy! Glad I read some reviews of the pattern before attempting it or I would have been in for a surprise. So I made some quick facings for the neckline instead of fully lining it, easy stuff. If you are using a thin jersey, you might want to keep that extra layer to help keep shape, hold up the skirt (though the elastic is for that), added thickness, and the facings might show through on thinner materials.
I'm putting up a quick tutorial on making facings just after this post! Highly recommend using them if your fabric allows it. Helps immensly with neck gape as opposed to just turning the hem. Best part about this alteration is that I didn't actually have enough fabric for the double layer anyway. Saved!
I kept the back of the bodice a double layer. I've done this before with something I made for my mom and liked the idea. It just smooths out the back, no straps or anything showing, just smooth and less clingy (and warmer). And I sewed it on to enclose the shoulder and side seams on the inside. I like it neat :)
Almost forgot that the pattern had a double layer for the drape too! Also ridiculous. Also left out. My jersey is the same on both sides so I just turned the edge under (as neat as possible) and left it at that. I would NOT recommend doing double layer on the drape unless your fabric is completely different on the other side. Even a single layer was heavy and the pleats at the top would be SO bulky.
Oh, and I left out the shoulder pads. As much as I love 40's fashion, I sincerely hope shoulder pads don't make a real comeback O_o